Fresh Tomato Sauce

Use your own homegrown tomatoes, or the vine-ripened variety from the farmer's market or supermarket. This is a light sauce best served over a delicate pasta such as capellini (angel hair).

Makes 2 1/2 cups sauce; serves 2 as a main dish

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 large or 1 small sweet onion, coarsely chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 8  medium or 6 large vine-ripened tomatoes (2 to 2 1/2 pounds), seeded and quartered
• 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano (or 3/4 teaspoon fresh chopped oregano)
• 3/8 teaspoon dried basil (or 1 teaspoon fresh chopped basil)
• Salt to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 8 ounces capellini or other delicate pasta, cooked according to package directions

In a large skillet on medium-high, heat oil and sauté onion until translucent, 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until aromatic, 1 minute. Add tomato paste, cook and stir until paste is well distributed and has darkened in color, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook until alcohol has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, oregano and basil, and cook, stirring often, until tomatoes have released all their juices and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes. As tomato skins loosen, use tongs to remove and discard them. If desired, puree sauce using an immersion or countertop blender. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve over capellini.